Plitvice

Plitvice

MEETING THE NATURAL HISTORY GUIDE

The natural attributes of the Plitvice Lakes National Park, uniqueness and sensibiliry of that phenomenon, deserve a full attention of our visitors. Recreational aspect of stay and the amazement with beauty of the area that conquers by its natural diversity and harmony of shapes and colours in any of the seasons, is based on many mutually conditioned natural characteristics.

That is a specific geological and hydrogeological phenomenon of karst. The series of 16 bigger and a few smaller lakes, gradually lined up, separated by travertine barriers for which the period of the last ten thousand years was crucial, and which were ruled by ecological relations similar to those of today - suitable for travertine depositing and for the origin of the lakes - are the basic phenomenon of the National Park.

Travertine forming plants, algae and mosses have been and still are playing an important role in their creation, thus making a very sensitive biodynamic system.

Transitive type of climate between coastal and continental with microclimatic diversities makes summer pleasant and sunny, while on the other side winter is relatively long, harsh and snowrich. There are large forestry complexes in the Park area, of which some sections are protected as a special reserve of forestry vegetation due to its primeval characteristics (Corkova uvala virgin forest). Diversity of places and living conditions makes possible for numerous species of plants and animals in watery and terrestrial areas of the Park to develop with no disturbancy.

It should be stressed that all fundamental things that do determine the Park, make a very fragile structural and functional complex, sensitive to natural changes and to incautious human actions.

UNESCO has declared it with all rights as the World's natural inheritance. All that was mentioned in this short introduction shows a big importance and the reason why this Natural History Guide of The Plitvice Lakes National Park is being published. It should come into hands of every single visitor and draw his attention to numerous attractions of the first Croatian National Park.

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION AND IMPORTANCE OF THE LAKES IN CROATIAN SPACE

After so many millions of regular visitors of this part of Croatia, is it necessary at all to mention their location? The answer is NO to those who know, and YES to all of those who haven't been there. This large number of visitors from all the continents of our planet Earth is just one of the reasons, but also a confirmation of their exceptional beauty, natural attraction, uniqueness and of that something which can be hardly described by words - that remains only recorded in sound and picture or can be directly felt while being there - to support a not imposed wish on us to come back here as soon as we can. One should only let himself to hidden feelings, to complete calmness, to listening to the murmur of waterfalls, while looking at the reflection in the water - in the surrounding where everything moves, changes and is permeated with one harmonious rythm...

Geographically defined: The Lakes are located in the area of southeast Europe, in part of Croatia where we go from northern flat land towards a bit more elevated karsted mountain area. The Lakes are situated where Kordun touches Lika and in the valley Ogulinsko - Plascanska dolina, on the very spring of the karst river Korana - at 480 to 636 meters above the sea level, on the hillside of Mala Kapela and Pljesivica.

The road directions coming from northern side from Varazdin, going through Zagreb and then continuing towards central and southern section of the Adriatic, are bringing us just next to the Plitvice Lakes as well as do the roads coming to them from Kvarner, Gorski Kotar, Slovenia and neighbouring Bosnia and Herzegovina, connecting west with east, or south with north of this part of Croatia. All these directions are connecting tourist attractions of "Primorsko - Adriatic" region with continental area, but visits are varying depending on the season of the year. Respective signs at the border crossings and in all bigger city centres are indicating the location of the Plitvice Lakes and the distance to them. That is why are we always in a position of making decision to go there and stay at the Lakes, either in spring, summer, autumn or winter - taking into account climatic conditions and the time that we have.

SIXTEEN PEARLS OF THE PLITVICE LAKES

FROM STREAMS AND BROOKS TO THE LAKES

On our way from Matica in Plitvicki Ljeskovac towards the springs of the Plitvice, it looks as if all the streams are running on the southeastern mountain slope of Mala Kapela towards the Lakes, feeding them with water.

The Black river (Crna rijeka), springs underneath the vertical cliffs, 670 metres high, at the mountain foot under Kiko on one side, and Bijeli vrhovi (White crests) with a small village of Uvalica on the other side. It runs in the Ljeskovac direction through a water - channel which is over two kilometers long, while the black mosses cover its bed on a number of spots.

The White river (Bijela rijeka), flows in from the western side of Ljeskovac, coming from a pass "Cudin klanac" which is 4 km long and where at 700 metres of altitude suddenly spouts out "from the earth", splashes and "boils" throwing out a white sand as a true karst spring.

Joining each other under the bridge in Plitvicki Ljeskovac, they run further as the Matica confluence to the first of the Plitvice Lakes. In Liman (or Limun) bay - part of Proscensko lake, a few kilometers long, a nameless stream with several permanent springs of changeable abundance flows in. There are several periodical stream flows on the western shores of Proscensko lake which are running down from a hill side of Proscansko crest.

The Brook (Rjecica) is a permanent stream which flows into "glibovita draga" of the Kozjak lake with very scattered tributaries, which bring water from eastern slopes of Bijeli vrhovi from the altitude of 780 m. About 6.5 km of its flow "feeds" approximately ten permanent springs, together with the confluence of Gilbotov potok, Ladeva and Petriceva draga and Poljancica. The streams Matijasevac, Jasenovac and Lilica potok are flowing into it from the westem side of Kozjak lake.

The Plitvica stream, 4 km long, is a part of Plitvice system, because its waters are creating the biggest Plitvice waterfall, 76 meters high , which falls down, above Sastavci at the end of Novakovica brod, into the rocky scar creating the beginning of the river Korana flow. The Plitvica stream springs as a strong karst spring under the sheer slopes, at 606 metres of altitude, close to a small village of Rodic Poljana at the foot of a big building called "Vila izvor". The Sartuk stream flows into the Plitvica stream under Rodic Poljana village.


GALLERY OF WATER, WATERFALLS AND MURMUR

The Plitvice Lakes are divided into the UPPER LAKES (Gornja jezera) and the LOWER LAKES (Donja jezera). The UPPER LAKES are located in the area from Proscansko lake up to the lake Kozjak in a slight enlargement of dolomite base, and the LOWER LAKES in a limestone canyon which continues further under Sastavci as the River Korana canyon flow - 134 km long before reaching the mouth. The length of the Plitvice Lakes (according to the longitudinal cross - section presented by Eng. M. Petrik in 1952) is 8200m, and if we add to it Liman draga at Proscansko, Susanjska draga at Kozjak and the furthest point at Ciganovac lake - the longitudinal line going through all the lakes makes 9050 m.

ATTRACTIONS IN DARKNESS OF THE PLITVICE CAVES

Except the usual morphological phenomena specific for karst area, we shall find numerous caves, cavities, abysses and ice pits within the Plitvice Lakes National Park. So far, we are familiar with more than fifty such phenomena, but only a small number of them is accessible and interesting as a tourist attraction.

Let us mention that due to various kinds of layers in which caves and other subterranean phenomena appear, we can find them within the fundamental phenomenon of the Plitvice Lakes, in travertine layers and in compact but karsted limestone sediments. We shall draw the attention of the Park visitors to such phenomena which they can see while walking from the end of the Proscansko lake, down the Upper and Lower Lakes, up to the canyon of the Korana.

Along the path going from Proscansko lake towards Ciganovac, immediately in front of us, we shall notice a cavity in travertine material beside the path, depth of which is filled with darkness. This extended crack in travertine barrier originated by a collapse, is close to today's waterfall.

Cave Park (Spiljski park) - a series of accessible and passable semi - caves and cave canals, through which partially arranged paths have been directed, are under Labudovacka travertine barrier. The hole of Janekovacka cave was located there, but now, the water of the falls is preventing people from entering the cave. Because of the difficult access to the foot of the barrier, the passage is no more accessible for the visitors.

There are no more caves in travertine material in the rest of the Upper Lakes, because most of the waterfalls are quite "young" - except a small semi - cave beside the upper section of Veliki Prstavac, from where a view opens down the path leading to former Galovacki buk. Here, in dolomite layers, speleological phenomena are not being created, so that we can find the first such forms along the Lower Lakes.

Milan's cave (Milanova pecina) ­ there is a travertine creation about 10m long under the north side of Kozjak waterfalls, but today's access to it is neglected and very inconvenient for majority of the Plitvice visitors. For sightseeing, you should bring your own lighting. Semi - cave Pakal - created in limestone, situated at the edge of the path along the Milanovo lake at iron fence, on the spot where this lake reaches its deepest point. The cave is 3.5m wide, 2.5m long and 1.2m high.

Milka Trnina's cave (Pecina Milke tmine) - also created in limestone, close to the waterfall of the same name, is in fact a narrow cave - fissure which can be reached by few stairs. It is 32m long, but only 2m wide, containing two separated enlargements elevated 7m. There are some of stalactites and stalagmites inside. Bring your own lighting for sightseeing!

Blue cave (Modra pecina) - 9m long, with submerged long entrance ­ would be accessible for sightseeing only by swimming! This cave was entered in the past by boat. There are only bats living on the ceiling of this cave, thus protected from human disturbance.

Supljara cave (Pecina Supljara) - its entrance is over 20m high, turned towards Big cascades and Kaluderovo lake, and from the upper side it continues into spacious, collapsing sinkhole through which it is possible to reach the path above the canyon of the Lower Lakes. The second and the third hall are branching off in the middle of the cave, and their total length is several tens of metres. You should bring your own lighting for sightseeing. Its interior is decorated by only few tuber - shaped creations of considerable thickness. The total length of the cave section of Supljara is 68m.

Lower Kaluderova cave (Kaluderova donja pecina) - is in fact a semi - cave, or rather a wave - cut on the left side of the path along Kaluderovo lake.

Upper Kaluderova cave (Gomja kaluderova pecina) - is a morphologic remain of a large cave space at the upper edge of a vertical cliff in the same level where the Plitvice river falls, and today is a part of the path which connects the foot of this waterfall with the upper plateau and the road at the bridge that crosses the stream flow. The path goes through the opened tunnel 17m long, while the side corridor is 14m long. The height and width of the tunnel is about 3m. There are no decorations in it.

Except the usual morphological phenomena specific for karst area, we shall find numerous caves, cavities, abysses and ice pits within the Plitvice Lakes National Park. So far, we are familiar with more than fifty such phenomena, but only a small number of them is accessible and interesting as a tourist attraction.

Let us mention that due to various kinds of layers in which caves and other subterranean phenomena appear, we can find them within the fundamental phenomenon of the Plitvice Lakes, in travertine layers and in compact but karsted limestone sediments. We shall draw the attention of the Park visitors to such phenomena which they can see while walking from the end of the Proscansko lake, down the Upper and Lower Lakes, up to the canyon of the Korana.

Along the path going from Proscansko lake towards Ciganovac, immediately in front of us, we shall notice a cavity in travertine material beside the path, depth of which is filled with darkness. This extended crack in travertine barrier originated by a collapse, is close to today's waterfall.

Cave Park (Spiljski park) - a series of accessible and passable semi - caves and cave canals, through which partially arranged paths have been directed, are under Labudovacka travertine barrier. The hole of Janekovacka cave was located there, but now, the water of the falls is preventing people from entering the cave. Because of the difficult access to the foot of the barrier, the passage is no more accessible for the visitors.

There are no more caves in travertine material in the rest of the Upper Lakes, because most of the waterfalls are quite "young" - except a small semi - cave beside the upper section of Veliki Prstavac, from where a view opens down the path leading to former Galovacki buk. Here, in dolomite layers, speleological phenomena are not being created, so that we can find the first such forms along the Lower Lakes.

Milan's cave (Milanova pecina) ­ there is a travertine creation about 10m long under the north side of Kozjak waterfalls, but today's access to it is neglected and very inconvenient for majority of the Plitvice visitors. For sightseeing, you should bring your own lighting. Semi - cave Pakal - created in limestone, situated at the edge of the path along the Milanovo lake at iron fence, on the spot where this lake reaches its deepest point. The cave is 3.5m wide, 2.5m long and 1.2m high.

Milka Trnina's cave (Pecina Milke tmine) - also created in limestone, close to the waterfall of the same name, is in fact a narrow cave - fissure which can be reached by few stairs. It is 32m long, but only 2m wide, containing two separated enlargements elevated 7m. There are some of stalactites and stalagmites inside. Bring your own lighting for sightseeing!

Blue cave (Modra pecina) - 9m long, with submerged long entrance ­ would be accessible for sightseeing only by swimming! This cave was entered in the past by boat. There are only bats living on the ceiling of this cave, thus protected from human disturbance.

Supljara cave (Pecina Supljara) - its entrance is over 20m high, turned towards Big cascades and Kaluderovo lake, and from the upper side it continues into spacious, collapsing sinkhole through which it is possible to reach the path above the canyon of the Lower Lakes. The second and the third hall are branching off in the middle of the cave, and their total length is several tens of metres. You should bring your own lighting for sightseeing. Its interior is decorated by only few tuber - shaped creations of considerable thickness. The total length of the cave section of Supljara is 68m.

Lower Kaluderova cave (Kaluderova donja pecina) - is in fact a semi - cave, or rather a wave - cut on the left side of the path along Kaluderovo lake.

Upper Kaluderova cave (Gomja kaluderova pecina) - is a morphologic remain of a large cave space at the upper edge of a vertical cliff in the same level where the Plitvice river falls, and today is a part of the path which connects the foot of this waterfall with the upper plateau and the road at the bridge that crosses the stream flow. The path goes through the opened tunnel 17m long, while the side corridor is 14m long. The height and width of the tunnel is about 3m. There are no decorations in it.

Kostrelceva cave (Kostrelceva pecina) - is a travertine cave located under the road which goes along the Plitvica stream waterfall, or rather it is about 10m south of it. There were stairs in the past, from the edge of the road to the cave entrance, but the access is quite inconvenient today. The cave is about 30m long with one side channel and quite a big hall, on the top of which a small hole is located, from where the light penetrates and the water leaks. The cave is filled with small stalactite shapes in the form of small pipes and travertine forms with traces of plants and mosses. You should bring your own lighting for sightseeing!

Cavity along the path (Jama uz stazu) - goes from the Entrance point 1 towards Novakovica brod lake, and is the same as Upper kaluderova cave, a reamains of a big cave or a cavity form. It is 10m deep and the sight of its hole might be seen with a necessary caution.

Little cave Koranska (Koranska pecinica) - is on the left side of the Korana flow, close to its first Fall. It is 11m long, and contains some large stalactite and stalagmite forms at the end of the channel.

Black cave (Pecina Vile Jezerkinje or Crna pecina) - is also located on the left side of the Korana flow, at its third Fall. The entrance width is 15m, its height is 7m and the traces of protective gates are visible even today - remains from the time when engineer Premuzic electrified the cave. This cave is in fact an obliquely placed canal, 105m long, from 3 to 12m wide, and is being elevated for about 10m looking from the level of its entrance. Today its entrance is covered by water and now it is not possible to pass through. For sightseeng (when available) you should bring your own lightning.

Golubnjaca cave (Golubnjaca pecina) - has two huge entrances. One is 24, and the other 46 metres high. This cave dominates over the right shore of the Korana. It is visible from the lookout point at the Entrance 1 as well as from the upper section where the Lower Lakes canyon starts. It is located above the fourth Korana Fall. That is a network of several canyons through which 230 stairs have been carved, and not appropriate concrete bridge was placed there. The total length of the cave is more than 160m with considerable amount of calcite decorations (now very devastated). For some time, the cave was electrified, there was a special guide for this cave and the entrance was protected by gates. You should bring your own light for today's sightseeing!

There are few more speleologically interesting caves in the Korana canyon that have been formed in limestone: Big cave (Velika pecina), Dark cave (Mala pecina - has three corridors) and Small Dark cave (Mala mracnjaca), while Ttavertine cave (Sedrena pecina) is located about 10m under the asphalt road. The visitors are not being taken into these caves, because the soil layers are containing paleontological and archaeological remains.

There is an over 40m long cave close to the small village of Rodic Poljana, with a bone remains of extinct cave bear. There are about ten speleologic phenomena - caves, cavities and icicles located around the village Jezerce, in Prijeboj direction and on the hillside of Medvedak, Pljesivica and Mala Kapela (around Seliski vrh). The most prominent one is Cudinka cavity, which is about 200m deep and an interesting icicle is just close to it.
Many of these objects could be arranged as tourist attractions for the visitors coming in organized groups, to sightsee the large area around the fundamental Lakes travertine phenomena and the waterfalls.